In 2007, I moved from Portugal to the United Kingdom. I was thirty-one. I’d already had a life, of sorts, and I was choosing to start another one.

The reason on paper was a place at the Guildhall School of Music and Drama. The real reason was that I felt my dreams couldn’t live in Portugal. I couldn’t find a home for them there. I needed to go somewhere they could.

The school sits inside the Barbican Centre, tucked into one corner of a forty-acre concrete city in the middle of London. Early mornings, I worked in the café serving breakfast to my peers. In the evening, I would show patrons their seats in one of the many performance spaces.

But during the day, I studied stage management and theatre production. I put on my first show in one of the smaller studio spaces there, with two friends from my year. We didn’t know what we were doing. I don’t think anyone putting on their first show ever does. We just wanted to make it work.

A few years later, I graduated. I left, got a job, got another life, eventually had a daughter, eventually learned to fly. The Barbican stayed where it was, and I went where I went.

But I keep going back.

Not for the shows, although I sometimes catch one. Not for the architecture, although I love it. I go back the way you go back to a house you used to live in. To check it’s still standing. To check I am.

A small city on the bones of a destroyed one

The Barbican is not a building. It’s a small city built on the bones of a destroyed one.

On the night of 29 December 1940, German bombers hit the City of London hard. By morning, the area between Aldersgate and Moorgate was forty acres of rubble. St Giles Cripplegate, a medieval church that had stood there for nine hundred years, was a shell. Almost everything else was gone.

It took the city the better part of two decades to decide what to do with the gap. What they eventually built, finished in stages through the seventies and into the early eighties, was a Brutalist fortress designed to bring people back to live in the City. Flats, walkways, lakes, a school, a church, a library, an arts centre. All of it raised above street level. All of it pedestrianised. A whole life stacked vertically into one postcode.

Brutalism is a style that people tend to have strong feelings about. The raw concrete, the sheer scale, the refusal to apologise for any of it. You either love it or you find it intimidating, and the Barbican is the country’s most uncompromising example of either reaction. You can still see the marks of the wooden moulds in the concrete walls, like fingerprints left by the people who poured them.

The architects had a specific resident in mind. They imagined someone, in their words, likely to have a taste for Mediterranean holidays, French food and Scandinavian design. Which is to say, they built it for a particular kind of imagined cosmopolitan, and they let those tastes show. There are influences from all over the place tucked into the design, if you know where to look. For example, there’s a corner where you can convince yourself you’re looking at the Egyptian Sphinx. Then real people moved in, and the place did what places do. It became itself.

What it became is, by any sensible measure, one of the largest performing arts complexes in Europe. The London Symphony Orchestra is resident here. The Royal Shakespeare Company comes through often. Two theatres, three cinema screens, two art galleries, a library, a tropical conservatory. Cafés and bars are sprinkled through the foyers so that you can’t really walk for two minutes without being able to sit down and order a coffee. From the outside, it looks like a fortress. From the inside, it’s a small town.

Getting lost on purpose

The Barbican is famously easy to get lost in.

Generations of visitors have stood on a walkway, looked at a sign, looked back at the walkway and quietly given up. The complex is built on multiple levels, with elevated highways that loop and double back, courtyards tucked behind staircases, and entrances that don’t always look like entrances. Early on, the Centre painted yellow lines on the floor to lead you in from the surrounding tube stations. Follow the yellow lines and they will, eventually, deliver you to the front door.

When I arrived in 2007, I followed them like everyone else. But after a few weeks of lectures and rehearsals, I stopped looking for them. The back stairs nobody used. The corner of the library where the light was good in the afternoon. The quiet spots and the loud ones. The cafés where you could read for two hours without being moved on, and the bars where you’d run into half your year by accident. By the time I left, I could walk the place in my sleep.

Inside the foyers, the building is warmer than its reputation suggests. The concrete is everywhere, but so is wood, and brick, and unexpected splashes of colour in the carpets and the upholstery. Skylights and tall windows pull the daylight in. There are corners that feel hidden even after you’ve found them three times. It’s a building that rewards loitering.

If you only have time for one thing, take the architecture tour. Ninety minutes, properly led, and the only way to see the place as it was meant to be seen. The Barbican was designed to be walked, and walking it with someone who knows what they're looking at is a different experience from wandering on your own.

The open prison

A few years ago, I overheard a Barbican resident talking about life inside the estate. He’d lived there for decades. He said, quite cheerfully, it’s like an open prison. You come in, and you can’t get out again.

It stuck with me. Not because I think he was complaining. He clearly wasn’t. He was describing something that sounded to me like the highest compliment you can pay a place. The Barbican had done its job so well that it had stopped feeling like accommodation and started feeling like the answer.

I think places do this to us more often than we admit. We pass through somewhere when we’re in the middle of becoming who we’ll be, and the place gets folded into us in ways that don’t show up for years. You don’t know which café tables, which corner shops, which walkways are doing the work. You just know, eventually, that they did.

The Barbican made me a theatre maker. It made me someone who could live in a country that wasn’t mine. It introduced me to the friends who became the rest of my life. Two of them, Lily James and Freddie Fox, have gone on to careers you might recognise. The other dozen or so are people I still call when something good or something bad happens. The Barbican gave me my first show and the unreasonable confidence to think I could put on a second one.

If you go

The Barbican is easy to get to. Trains into Blackfriars give you a fifteen-minute walk past St Paul’s, which is the prettier approach. The tube drops you at Barbican or Moorgate, both of which lead straight into the complex. There’s a car park beneath the estate if you’d rather drive.

If you're flying yourself in, Biggin Hill to the south is the most practical of the London general aviation airports for a Barbican trip. It will take you around 50 minutes by a combination of taxi and train.

When you arrive, ignore the Silk Street entrance and walk in from the lakeside. It was the original front door, and it tells you something about the place before you’ve stepped inside.

For lunch, the Barbican Kitchen by the lakeside is the easy choice. Sandwiches, pizzas, salads, decent coffee, around £10 a plate, and children under ten eat free with a paying adult. Sit outside if the weather is doing anything reasonable and keep an eye on the local bird population, who have opinions about your sandwich. The Bar and Grill on the first floor does proper burgers in portions that defeat most adults, in the £10 to £20 bracket. The Brasserie overlooks the lake and runs a two-course menu at £28, which is the right shout for a pre-show dinner if there’s something on.

If you’re staying over, the Premier Inn Smithfield is a short walk away and you can usually get a family room for under £100, which leaves more in the budget for tickets.

Do the architecture tour. Visit the library, which is the underrated gem of the complex: music scores you can borrow and play on the pianos there, a children’s section upstairs, and a quiet that the rest of London does not have on offer. And then, if there’s something on, see something. A play, a film, a concert. The point of the place is not the place. The point of the place is what happens inside it.

The yellow lines in my life keep leading me back to the Barbican.

Hey there 👋

I had a plan for this episode. A good plan! I was going to fly us to one of my absolute favourite Christmas events here in the UK.

But, as we know in aviation (and in life), the weather, or in this case, the result of a test, doesn’t always care about your plans.

So, here’s what happened. I recently took my Instrument Rating test. And... well, let’s call it a “partial success.” I flew a solid test, but there was one section that needed a do-over.

Instead of flying to record a festive podcast special, I found myself back in the cockpit with my instructor to revise a couple of issues and then I took the test again. The good news? I passed! As of last week, I am officially rated. The bad news? I completely missed my window to travel and record the new episode.

Does that mean I leave you empty-handed for Christmas? Absolutely not.

I’m taking you back to a place that left a huge impact on me last year: Blenheim Palace.

I recorded a full episode about this in 2024. And while they tweak the light trails and the themes every year, the core of the event—the magic, the atmosphere, the sheer scale of it—is exactly the same.

So, if you’re looking for a place that feels like stepping into a Narnia movie, this is it! And, instead of a rushed episode from a stressed-out pilot, here is my honest recommendation from a Christmas trip that actually went to plan. Spoiler alert: It’s fantastic.

Just a quick heads-up: this episode is from our sister podcast, Travel Plans. So if you hear me refer to Travel Plans instead of The Pilot’s Logbook, don’t worry—you’re still on the right frequency.

I loved it there, and I hope one day, you will, too.

In This Week’s Episode

The festive season presents a wonderful opportunity to explore some of the UK’s most popular Christmas markets and to see cities and towns in a different and warmer light.

Blenheim Palace, a magnificent 18th-century house and UNESCO World Heritage Site, is surrounded by over 2,000 acres of parkland and lakes. It’s one of the most stunning country houses I’ve ever visited!

Every year, they transform the grounds into what could only be described as an extravaganza - one million lights transform the Palace into a beacon for those looking for a seasonal family getaway.

So, grab your Christmas jumper, hat and gloves, and let’s explore this magical destination together!

A detailed guide

You can see photos, watch videos and get all the details in the link below:

Travel Plans with Fernando Pinho

Christmas at Blenheim Palace: A Fairy-Tale Adventure

To bring this article to life, I've created an immersive podcast episode. You can listen to it below or find it on your favourite podcast app by searching for "Travel Plans with Fernando Pinho…

Read more

a year ago · Fernando Pinho

Next episode

I wish you a joyous Christmas season and a New Year filled with love, laughter, and unforgettable flying adventures.

The next episode will be with you just before the new year. Meanwhile, if you land in Duxford, please let me know. Coffee and pastries on me!

Until then, happy flying! ✈️

Fernando

Hey there 👋

Sometimes, I wonder when things started to go wrong for us humans.

I wake up at 6:30 am every morning. One hour later, I’m dropping the girls off at school and heading to the office or the airport. It’s a whirlwind of emails, planning, and meetings, and on some days, as a volunteer pilot, I even get to squash in a takeoff and landing.

The day rushes by in a blur until it’s time to collect the girls again. Homework, dinner, bedtime routines...it’s a never-ending cycle. Finally, at 8:30 pm, the girls are tucked up in bed. I allow myself a few minutes to remind myself how lucky I am to have Jane and the girls in my life. Then, it’s time for me to get back to work.

Does this sound familiar? I have a feeling we’re all on the same speeding train, one that doesn’t exactly have a convenient “stop” button. Was it always this way? I don’t think so. We’re constantly bombarded with notifications, our phones delivering a steady stream of anxieties disguised as news updates.

We’re more connected than ever – to each other, to our devices, and to the never-ending demands of the digital world. But are we really connecting?

Disconnecting sounds tempting, doesn’t it? But could we even do it if we wanted to? Doubt creeps in. What if I miss that crucial email? What if I’m out of the loop tomorrow?

And then, one day, a notification on my phone (oh, the irony!) delivered a report: “A study found those who spend at least two hours in nature throughout the week report consistently higher levels of health and well-being compared to those who don’t.”

Oops, I said to myself. I realised then that I barely spend any time in nature. Ok, I might walk the dog in the local meadow—a small patch of green amidst the urban sprawl—but not much more than that.

And, as often happens, once I started showing an interest in nature, my feeds were flooded with related content. That’s how I stumbled upon the tiny and remote cabin I’m about to share with you.

Spoiler alert!

So, today, we’re saying a big “goodbye” to stress, overflowing task lists and that constant feeling of being overwhelmed. We’re ditching the city and venturing into the heart of a peaceful forest in Norfolk, in the East of England.

Towering trees, sunlight dappling through the leaves and the sounds of nature all around a tiny wooden cabin. No phone signal, no internet, no connection to the busy world and not a single soul in sight. Just you, the birds and the breeze.

Nature’s Prescription

Over the past few years, a growing number of companies in the UK and around the world have been creating off-the-grid cabins in the most breathtaking and secluded locations. Their mission? To immerse us in nature, not just for a couple of hours, but for days at a time.

One of the companies doing this in the UK is Unyoked.

Their website emphasises the benefits of disconnecting from a busy world and reconnecting with nature. Backed by a growing amount of research, they believe escaping to the wilderness is key to de-stressing, finding clarity, and rediscovering a slower pace of life. (Though, if I’m being honest, my experience went far beyond just “slowing down,” but more on that later!)

Intrigued? Here’s how it works. Unyoked scouts for locations all around the UK, Australia and New Zealand. To be chosen, a location must be both safe and secluded.

Imagine waking up to the dawn chorus in a forest or falling asleep under a canopy of stars, miles away from the nearest city light. While the promise is tranquillity, nature can be unpredictable. At times, my stay was accompanied by a symphony of howling winds and driving rain.

These cabins are now so popular that booking one isn’t always easy. And that’s despite the fact that they have over 30 spots spread all over the UK in Norfolk, Suffolk, Wales, Shropshire, the South Downs and Exmoor.

Please note that Unyoked is dead serious about helping you disconnect. Most of their sites have very limited phone reception, and a few have none at all. As my own experience would show, the complete lack of signal proved vital, allowing my mind to truly wander.

Getting to our retreat: An Adventure for Drivers, Train Enthusiasts, and Aviators Alike

Now, how on earth do you find these cabins?

For safety reasons, you only find out the exact location of your home in nature once you book one.

Booking a stay with only a vague idea of its location in Norfolk felt a bit strange. But the booking confirmation came with a fantastically comprehensive information pack—the best I’ve ever seen! The “Field Guide”, as Unyoked calls it, will provide you with all of the travel details step by step, regardless of the way you prefer to go.

If you prefer to drive, you can take your car right to the edge of the wilderness, where a reserved parking spot awaits. You don’t need a 4x4 vehicle, but don’t expect an asphalted road.

For those who prefer public transport, the journey is a bit more elaborate but no less rewarding. You’ll hop off the train (the Field Guide will tell you which station to get off at), then enjoy a scenic taxi ride to the edge of the forest.

I can already hear your taxi driver saying, “I don’t know where the edge of the forest is!”. If that’s the case, don’t worry. Unyoked’s “Field Guide” will include maps you can share with the driver.

Now, this is a public service announcement!

Please, please, book your taxi for your return journey before you let your driver leave. Most likely, you won’t have phone signal to call a taxi a few days later.

After your taxi takes you to your drop-off point, it’s only you! The final leg of the journey is a refreshing and exciting hike through nature to reach your tranquil hideaway.

Unyoked says the entire journey should take at most three hours. If I’d opted for public transport, my journey would have taken two hours and cost £45 each way (that’s for the train and taxi ride).

Arriving by Air: A Journey Back in Time

While most visitors arrive by car or public transport, my journey to the cabin took a rather unexpected turn.

As soon as I booked my retreat, I realised there was a decommissioned World War II airbase in the region. After a few checks, I realised that the current owner, a local farmer, is a pilot and allows other pilots to land in these historic runways that once welcomed the legendary B-17 Flying Fortress.

Landing there was quite the experience! As the airfield officially doesn’t exist anymore, the aeroplane’s computers went into a frenzy, thinking that my descent was accidental and that I was about to crash!

Alarms blared and lights flashed, but we landed safely in RAF Great Massingham, a site that, in its heyday, had over 600 servicemen living and working there helping the Allies bomb Nazi-occupied Europe.

Pilot’s Logbook

For my fellow aviators, flying to Norfolk offers stunning aerial views of the English countryside. Landing at Great Massingham Airfield is a unique experience and a reminder of the history embedded in this landscape.

You must obtain prior permission before you head there. The airfield’s old runways are still in good shape (considering their age), but be prepared for a lack of navigational aids and the absence of radio services. Please be aware of possible dog walkers and horses on the taxiway that doubles as a bridleway. The landing fee is £10 (October 2024)

Your last chance for supplies

From the airfield, a ten-minute walk through fields where horses are grazing takes us to the charming village of Great Massingham with its impressive green and ponds.

This is your last chance to do three days’ worth of grocery shopping. While the cabins will surprise you with comfort and with all you need, bringing food is your responsibility.

After that, you will be ready to continue your journey. You can either get a taxi to your drop-off point in the forest, which will take you there in 10 minutes, or, if you feel brave enough, you can walk straight to the cabin from here, but you will need up to two hours and plenty of hands to carry your belongings and food.

Into the Woods - how spicy do you like it?

Regardless of how you travel to the edge of the wilderness, by your car parking spot and taxi drop-off point, you will find a trusty wheelbarrow to help you transport your belongings (take note: rolling luggage won’t be much help!).

From there, it’s a short(ish) hike through the trees to your new, yet temporary, home.

Unyoked has a very unconventional way of telling you how challenging the walk to the cabin will be. They call it Spice. The spicier the cabin, the longer the distance and the more challenging your walk will be. In my case, a medium spice cabin took me 15 minutes to complete.

Unlike Nando’s restaurants, here, extra spicy means your hike will most likely be strenuous and will have a steep incline. So, please check the spice level before you book and choose accordingly.

Now, fear not. Personally, I found the walk to the cabin to be one of the highlights of the whole trip. The sound of the birds, the wind running through the trees’ branches… It all felt like an introduction to what was to come, a welcome drink to make you feel at ease in your new habitat.

The deeper I went into the woods, the more my phone’s signal faded away. With each step, I felt more and more disconnected from what I had left behind. It’s almost like nature was saying, “Hey Fernando, look at what you’ve been missing!”.

Then, just at another edge of the forest, a few steps from a massive meadow, I found a little clearing. And right in the middle, surrounded by these giant trees... was my cabin.

The whole place was bursting with these beautiful, warm autumnal browns mixed with deep, vibrant greens. The sunlight filtered through the trees, casting what seemed to be a spotlight on the cabin. It was like discovering a perfectly wrapped Christmas present.

The cabin itself has this sleek, modern look. It’s rectangular, clad in dark wood, with a matching black roof. In one corner, there are two massive windows that let in tons of natural light. And right in the centre, a glass door leads out to the deck, with a cute little chimney peeking out from the roof.

Speaking of the deck, there are a couple of wooden chairs, a small table and just enough space to soak up the surroundings.

A few meters in front, there’s a fire pit surrounded by large logs that double as seats. I can imagine a cosy evening there under the stars, lying down on the (provided) hammock. There’s even a wood-burning pizza oven!

Inside the Cabin - Everything You Need and Nothing You Don’t

As you step inside, you’ll notice that every inch was carefully thought through. The result? It has a very functional Scandinavian-style interior that looks bigger than you would expect from the outside. And I bet you will either say, Wow, or This is so Cute!

At the far end of the cabin, those two large windows I mentioned are like two massive live picture frames showcasing the forest around you.

But wait, the best part is that the bed is just next to the windows. You can stargaze all night and wake up to the sunrise without even getting out of bed! Also, I definitely didn’t expect such a comfy bed in the middle of nowhere!

Every inch of the cabin has a function. You’ll find a table beside the bed that doubles as a dining table (for two) and a bedside table with a CD player and USB charging ports. You even have a small collection of classic albums, including Bob Dylan, Supertramp, The Beach Boys and Neil Young. There’s also a good book selection, including guides on how to connect with nature.

Over by the entrance, there’s a wood burner and all the tools you need to keep the cabin toasty during the colder months.

In the middle of the space, you have what is most likely the best-equipped kitchen you can find in a forest!

If someone had told me about a kitchen in the middle of the woods, I would’ve pictured something basic, maybe a camping stove and a cooler. But this is something else! Gas hob, a mini-fridge, pots and pans, cutlery, mugs and bowls, a manual coffee grinder, coffee beans, a teapot, tea bags, salt, oil... the list goes on and on. If you prefer to cook outdoors in the fire pit, you’ll find a couple of cast-iron pans.

There is a beautifully crafted bathroom at the far end of the cabin. The walls are made of dark wood with tiled floors. There’s a stone basin, shampoo, shower gel, toilet paper and towels.

The hot rain shower has plenty of pressure and a window to peek into the woods.

To make everything work, the designers of these cabins have used some of the best sustainable technology available out there. For example, the shower uses collected rainwater and is heated using the electricity from solar panels.

The toilet is a bit different, too. It doesn’t flush! But instead, it uses composting technology to break down, well... you know what I mean. I’m not entirely sure how it works, but I’m happy to leave it at that for now!

So, the cabin itself – inside and out – is absolutely spot on. It’s beautiful, it’s functional. It has everything you need and nothing you don’t.

“Now, what?”

Once you settle in, you might start asking yourself this question.

The aim of these cabins in the middle of nature is that you really disconnect. And to be fair, I can’t imagine being more disconnected than I was. I had no phone signal. No way to contact anyone. I hadn’t seen a soul in hours, and the nearest village was a 90-minute walk away – part of which was in the forest.

Now, for someone who’s always connected, I felt a bit of a shock to the system. It’s like my head was shouting, “Something is wrong. Run!”.

But slowly, I started to feel more relaxed. And then I decided to read a small booklet Unyoked calls the “In-Field Guide”. As soon as I opened it, there it was, that question, “Now, what?”

There was also an explanation. Unyoked says that it takes some time to get used to the change. They add:

While humans became experts at attaching outcomes to everything we do, Unyoked is about unstructured time. It’s about staring, daydreaming, walking, drawing, journaling.

Entire hours flying by sitting in bed, watching how the light dances across the trees. Seeing sunset, sunrise.

No expectation. We call it good boredom. So, take the pressure off. Do nothing.”

Designed to Make You Slow Down

Fortunately, the cabin is designed to help you adapt and slow down quickly.

Want a coffee? Sure, here are the tools! Manual coffee grinder, beans and whistle kettle! The rhythmic grinding, the anticipation as the kettle whistles, the first sip of that hard-earned brew—it all forces you to slow down and savour the moment.

Want to warm up the cabin? Easy! Here’s the wood burner, firelighters, matches and logs. Oh, you need to chop them up because they are a little too big, but don’t worry, here’s a log splitter and a hammer! The act of building a fire becomes a mindful exercise, a connection to a primal rhythm. Each step—from selecting the wood to coaxing the flames—demands your attention and draws you into the present.

Suddenly, you’ll notice everything was carefully left there to help you relax and adapt. Books about being and loving nature. Music about being alone, relationships, creativity and happiness. Board games that will take you a long time to complete.

Surrounded by these thoughtful details, I began to realize that slowing down wasn’t just about having the time. It was about appreciating the process. The cabin’s design nudged me towards a different rhythm, one where the simple act of making coffee became a mindful ritual and the crackling fire a source of contemplation.

It was in this unhurried space that I began to feel a shift within myself.

It felt ok not to be busy. The pressure started to lift, and I felt incredibly happy and connected with my surroundings.

Axe in hand! Embracing Vulnerability

Before I travelled to Norfolk, I wondered how vulnerable or fearful I would feel in the middle of a forest, far from civilisation, amongst the wildlife.

I’ll admit it. It crossed my mind that someone could appear in front of my cabin, axe in hand! Or what if there was an emergency – maybe I’d burn the cabin down or break a leg tripping over a fallen tree? How quickly could I get help?

In reality, these cabins are pretty secure. They are located on private land. You likely won’t have a phone signal, but in an emergency, 999 will use any network available. Each cabin has its own emergency procedures, and if you drive to the location, your car won’t be that far away (although at night, you will need to use the torch available in the cabin to navigate your way around).

Now, I did feel vulnerable. But that was ok. We should feel vulnerable. It means we are aware and focused, and most importantly, we understand that we can’t always control everything in life.

And that realisation can be beautiful, too, and help us accept life as it is.

Having said that, if you get scared in dark and secluded environments, I suggest you come with a friend or partner. This experience is perfect for two.

The Ideal (and Not-So-Ideal) Guests

So, who are these cabins for? After my own experience, I believe three groups of people are the ideal guests. The first group are those needing to hit the pause button and take time to get clarity, relax or find a new perspective on life.

The second group would be the creatives. These cabins not only let you disconnect from a busy and demanding world, but they also have the power to inspire. I can imagine a writer there or a musician drafting the lyrics and notes to a new song.

The last group would be those looking for a new experience - friends, a couple, a family with children. This is an adventure like no other and is reasonably accessible.

Cost

When writing, a three-day, two-night break at one of these cabins would cost you around £350. There’s an extra £40 if you want to bring your pet. Want a discount? If you subscribe to this newsletter, you can get 15% off your booking. That’s up to £50!

Important Considerations Before You Book

I can also tell you who might find this experience more of a challenge. If you depend on a medical device like a CPAP machine, for example, the power provided by the solar panels might not be enough. Also, if you experience reduced mobility, the distance between the car park and your cabin, combined with some challenging tracks to get to the cabin, might make it difficult or even impossible.

I recommend you contact Unyoked directly to discuss your requirements.

Bear in mind that each cabin accommodates two people only. So if you are a family of four, for example, you will need two cabins.

Some locations do offer multiple cabins, but they are never side by side. You’ll need to walk a short distance (10 to 15 minutes) to get from one to the other. In the winter, you’ll need a torch to navigate the forest. There’s one in each cabin. Good luck!

So, Shall you Book it? Will I Return?

I confess that when I arrived at my secluded cabin, I had many questions and some doubts. In less than one day, I had adapted and embraced being disconnected from the world where others often dictate our schedules and rhythm. I also couldn’t access a 24/7 stream of news coming at me in pop-up notifications (Alleluia!).

And I guess that was key to helping me start to unwind and feel calmer. For the first few hours, a little voice in my head told me something was wrong… but it quietened down.

Then, I had two fantastic nights’ sleep. Gosh, those were great! The days were never rushed. Brewing a coffee was so slow, and I had to chop wood to keep the cabin warm. But all of these tasks were so satisfying.

I went on a very wet walk through the forest. I hugged a couple of trees, had an imaginary chat with a couple of squirrels, and just allowed my mind to wander around.

I’m not sure yet if these days will have a lasting impact on my well-being. But it absolutely did for the time I was here.

You might ask, “Do you need a secluded retreat to de-stress?” Probably not. But it would require a determination that isn’t always easy to achieve. Also, the people around you might hinder this endeavour inadvertently, interrupting you.

It’s not easy to get off a train when it’s moving fast, right? But there, in the middle of nowhere, you have no option. Nature can slow you down and cut you off from the outside world.

Since I left, I spent a couple of weeks producing the podcast episode and writing this article. Not a single hour of that process went by without me saying to myself, I want to return!

I loved it there, and I hope one day, you will, too.

Hey there

Most people flying into northern France are heading to Paris. Le Touquet is what they're flying over.

It sits on the coast about an hour from Calais, close enough that British pilots treat it as a Sunday morning run, and yet outside of aviation circles, almost nobody seems to know it exists. Which is strange, because a hundred years ago, it was one of the most fashionable resorts in Europe.

I've been going for three summers now, and I'm still finding new reasons to go back.

The History

Le Touquet’s story starts in the late 19th century with a Parisian lawyer named Alphonse Daloz, who looked at a stretch of dunes on the northern French coast and decided to build a resort to rival Deauville. He named it Paris-Plage — Paris’ beach — which tells you everything about his ambitions.

Then, in 1902, an English businessman called Sir John Whitley arrived and bought the town. The whole thing. His plan was to turn it into a playground for the British elite, and he built accordingly: hotels, a racecourse, a golf course and casinos. That last one mattered more than it might sound. Gambling was illegal in England at the time. Le Touquet was close enough to feel familiar and just foreign enough to get away with things.

It worked. The resort became known as London by the Sea. There was even a scheduled flight from Croydon Airport, about an hour’s flying, which in the 1930s was quite something. Croydon Airport is long gone now, though there’s a good museum on the site if you’re curious.

Then came the war. In 1940, 40,000 German soldiers occupied Le Touquet. Four years later, in a move aimed at misleading German forces about the D-Day landing site, the British bombed it. Over four days, they dropped 2,000 bombs on a town they had largely built themselves. When the Germans retreated, they left behind over 100,000 mines. It took three years to clear them.

Le Touquet was rebuilt. The British connection never quite went away, which is why, recently, the airport was renamed Le Touquet Elisabeth II International Airport.

If you are interested in finding out more about Le Touquet’s history, I highly recommend this 1968 Yorkshire Television documentary. You can watch an extract above.

Getting to Le Touquet

Getting to Le Touquet is easier than most people expect. From the UK, you’re looking at a short Channel crossing and a straightforward one-hour drive down the northern French coast. Parking in town is simple, and every hotel worth staying at has it.

If you’re a pilot, you’ve probably already been. Le Touquet is one of those airports that British pilots accumulate hours to, often on a Sunday morning with no particular plan. It has customs and border force on site, a friendly team on the ground, and a Golden Retriever called Marcus who considers himself the real person in charge.

The beach and town centre are about two miles away — easy by bike, manageable on foot.

For years, I was one of those pilots who landed, had a coffee, and flew home. I thought I knew the place. I didn’t, not really. This guide is the result of actually staying.

Arriving in Town: A Forest Welcome

As soon as you leave the airport (I highly recommend grabbing a bike and this map), you'll find yourself enveloped by a lush pine forest. In fact, two-thirds of Le Touquet is covered in these trees.

The trees have been here since 1837, when Alphonse Daloz planted them across the dunes to stop them moving. It worked, and the forest stuck.

Today, it’s full of villas sitting quietly between the pines, and the whole thing has a slightly improbable calm about it for somewhere so close to the beach.

A short ride from the airport brings you to Le Westminster Hotel, which has been here since 1924 and survived the war intact.

It’s one of the most beautiful buildings in town, and it comes with a story: Sean Connery reportedly signed his first James Bond contract here. I have no idea if that’s true, but the hotel looks exactly like the sort of place where it should be.

I can imagine him signing his iconic 007 contract right there, probably with a glass of martini, shaken, not stirred!

Le Touquet Express: Making the Most of a Few Hours

Just past Le Westminster, you're in the historic centre. It's a slightly eccentric mix of Belle Époque, Art Deco, and seaside town (sometimes a bit too laid-back, if you ask me).

But it's compact, walkable, and full of things worth stopping for. With a leisurely lunch, this loop takes about three hours. Oh, and if you need a map of the highlights, here’s one.

The Tennis Club and Palais de Congrés

The Tennis Club has been here since 1903, and it’s considerably grander than you might expect from a seaside town. Twenty-six courts, five of them indoors, a 900-seat central court, a swimming pool, and three football pitches. Courts and the pool are open to visitors, so if the mood takes you, you can just turn up and play.

Just across the road, the Palais de Congrès started life as a casino in 1913, and not just any casino. It’s believed to have inspired the fictional Royale-les-Eaux in Ian Fleming’s Casino Royale, which tells you something about the kind of place Le Touquet was. These days it hosts concerts, theatre, and events.

The Hermitage Hotel and Avenue du Verger

A short walk brings you to the Hermitage Hotel, built in 1910 and once the most coveted address in town. It’s private residences now, so the outside is all you’ll get, but it’s enough. Take a moment with it.

As we continue our walk, we reach the bustling Avenue du Verger. These Art Deco shops, constructed in 1927, once housed the world's most prestigious luxury brands. Today, they've been transformed into cafes and restaurants, perfect for a quick coffee break or a leisurely lunch.

The Lighthouse and La Village Suisse

There were two lighthouses here before the war. Both were destroyed in the bombings, and a replacement was built in 1951. It’s a listed monument now, and you can climb it: 274 steps, no lift. The view from the top is genuinely worth the effort.

A short walk away, Le Village Suisse is a cluster of houses in an improbable mix of medieval and Swiss chalet styles. It once marked the entrance to Le Touquet, and it still looks slightly surprised to find itself in northern France. I mean that as a compliment.

Ypres Garden, Saint Jeanne d'Arc Church and The Town Hall

The Ypres Garden is named in memory of the Belgian refugees Le Touquet took in during the First World War. It’s a quiet spot with a good story behind it. In summer, it hosts music and circus shows for families.

Across from it, the Saint Jeanne d’Arc church was built in 1911. Please go inside and look at the stained glass windows. I’m not usually someone who says that about churches, but these are something else: the whole story of Joan of Arc told in light and colour. Don’t walk past.

The Town Hall sits just opposite, a listed building that’s hard to miss. It has the confidence of architecture that was built to impress, and it still does.

The Market and The Post Office

Right by the Town Hall, the Indoor Market is hard to miss, a listed building with a distinctive arched facade that gives it away before you’ve read any signs. It’s open on Thursdays and Saturdays, and on Mondays during summer, when vendors spill out into the surrounding streets and you can find almost anything you didn’t know you needed.

Next to it, the Post Office is a proper Art Deco building and a listed monument. If it’s open when you pass, go in. It’s genuinely beautiful, and most people walk straight past it.

Au Chat Bleu and the Beach

Before you leave the centre, stop at Au Chat Bleu. It's been here since 1912, started by two sisters with a shared passion for cats and chocolate, and it's now one of the most well-regarded chocolate shops in France. Worth a visit even if you weren't planning on buying anything. You will be by the time you leave.

From there it’s a short walk to the beach, where the coloured wooden cabins have been sitting since 1960, doing exactly what they were built to do. They’re cheerful and a little eccentric, and they suit Le Touquet perfectly.

That’s the three-hour loop. If that’s all the time you have, it’s enough to understand why people come back. If you have longer, the best is still ahead.

Embracing Nature: Le Touquet's Magnificent Beach and Beyond

If there's one thing that defines Le Touquet, it's its sprawling beach.

The beach is eleven kilometres long and wide enough that it never feels crowded, even in August.

At low tide, it stretches so far you almost lose sight of where the sand ends and the sea begins. There are beach clubs for children and cafes along the front, and plenty of space to do nothing in particular, which is underrated as an activity.

Exploring Canche Bay Nature Park: A Sanctuary for Wildlife

Head north along the beach and the town quietly drops away. The Canche Bay Nature Park covers 45 hectares of protected dunes and forest, with walking and cycling trails that feel a long way from anywhere, even though you’re ten minutes from the centre.

The view from the observation points across the bay is one of the best in the area. At low tide, seals appear on the sandbanks, not always, but often enough that it’s worth looking. Thousands of birds pass through during migration season, so if that’s your thing, bring binoculars.

La Base Nord, one of my favourite restaurants in Le Touquet, sits right by the watersports centre here. I’d recommend timing your visit accordingly.

Watersports Wonderland

Le Touquet takes sport seriously. Seriously enough that the England rugby team based themselves here for the 2023 World Cup, which tells you something about the facilities.

The beach is the main venue. At the southern end, La Base Sud specialises in sand yachting — wind-powered vehicles on wheels that cross the flat sand at over 90 kilometres per hour. They look improbable and apparently feel extraordinary. I booked a two-hour session to find out for myself. The wind that day was under 10 knots. The session didn’t run. I’m going back.

If the wind is more cooperative than it was for me, a two-hour discovery session is the way in. And if sand yachting isn’t your thing, the same centre offers paddleboarding, surfing, and kitesurfing.

The northern centre, Canche Bay Watersports, covers sailing, kayaking, canoeing, and pretty much anything else you might want to do on or near water. You can also take a 45-minute river cruise around the estuary from there. On my list for next time is a jet surfing lesson, though I’m saying that quietly so nobody holds me to it.

Beyond the Beach: Le Touquet's Equestrian and Golfing Highlights

The Prince of Wales used to fly over to Le Touquet for polo and golf in the 1920s, which says a lot about the kind of place this was.

The Equestrian Park he visited has since served as an Olympic training base, and it’s still considered one of the finest in France.

What I like about it is that it doesn’t feel exclusive. The facilities are open to everyone, and you can spend a perfectly good afternoon there without sitting on a horse once.

That said, if you have children with you, the pony rides tend to settle the matter quickly.

For experienced riders, there are daily group rides to the beach and through the surrounding forest and dunes — 45 kilometres of dedicated trails in total. And if you happen to be there in spring, the International Showjumping Competition is worth catching. Five hundred horses from 20 countries.

It’s quite a sight.

Tee Off in Style

Golf is woven just as deeply into Le Touquet’s identity. The town emblem is a caddy, which tells you everything.

The resort has been running for over 115 years and is ranked among the best courses in Europe. Three options: an 18-hole course through the pine forest, a 9-hole course for a shorter round, and a practice course if you’re working on something specific.

The clubhouse restaurant is open to the public, which means you don’t need to pick up a club to enjoy the setting — and the setting, framed by pines and dunes, is reason enough to go. I’ve never played a round in my life, but I’ve had lunch there, and I’ll be back for that alone.

Thrill Seekers Unite: Parc Bagatelle Awaits!

If you’re travelling with children, the beach and the wooden carousel in town will keep the younger ones happy. But five miles outside Le Touquet, Parc Bagatelle is worth knowing about for when the beach isn’t quite enough.

It’s a proper theme park with over 35 attractions, including rollercoasters, water rides, and a small farm. Under 30 euros per person, or around 100 for a family, which for a full day of entertainment is hard to argue with. In my experience, the rollercoasters produce more screaming than laughter, but that’s probably the point.

Getting there without a car is straightforward. There’s a regular bus service, and taxis work too, though in summer they can be scarce. Ask at the airport or hotel for reliable contacts.

Le Touquet by Night

When the sun goes down, the action moves to Rue St Jean. Restaurants, nightclubs, and casinos fill up, and the town feels like a different place from the one you walked around that afternoon — livelier, louder, and a little more French about it.

If you’re into music, Le Touquet rewards the effort of checking the calendar before you go. There are jazz festivals in both summer and winter, plus opera, theatre, and ballet throughout the year. The big one is the Beach Music Festival in August, a full weekend of dance music on the sand that draws crowds from across France. Fatboy Slim headlined in 2025. It’s that kind of event.

Check the local events agenda before you travel. It’s easy to arrive and discover you’ve just missed something worth staying for.

Checking In: My Honest Hotel Reviews

A century ago, Le Touquet had some of the most prestigious hotels in Europe. A handful survive, in one form or another.

All the options below are pet-friendly, though there's usually a fee for that.

The Westminster Hotel

You've already walked past it, so you know what the building looks like. The inside lives up to it. Spacious rooms, attentive service, and a complimentary kids' club that parents tend to appreciate more than they expect.

One honest caveat: the cancellation policy is stricter than I'd like, especially if you're flying in on a small plane and keeping one eye on the weather. Read the small print before you book.

The Ibis, Novotel and Tribe complex

A couple of miles from the centre, near the airport, this complex has three hotels at different price points: Ibis, Novotel, and Tribe, all in the same location among the pines.

Ibis is the budget option, and it's better than you'd expect: decent rooms, a pleasant outdoor bar with pizzas and salads, and a 24-hour cancellation policy.

The distance from the centre puts some people off, but I'll be honest, I prefer it. It's quiet, it's close to the airport, and every morning I'd cycle through the forest into town, which for me is as good a start to the day as any.

Novotel Thalassa

At the southern end of the beach, right on the sand, Novotel Thalassa looks from the outside like it was designed by someone who'd never seen a hotel.

Inside it makes more sense: floor-to-ceiling windows, sea views from the rooms, an indoor saltwater pool, and a spa.

If you're travelling with family and the beach is the main event, the location alone makes it worth considering.

Renting a House

This summer I spent the whole of August in Le Touquet, which meant the family needed more than a hotel room. We ended up in a six-bedroom house in the forest, close to the airport and big enough for the various relatives who flew in from across Europe at different points during the month. It worked out to around £40 per person per day, which for a house that size in August felt like a fair deal.

If you’re thinking about doing something similar, Airbnb and Vrbo both have good options across most budgets.

My advice as a pilot: look at the map before you book. Being close to the airport isn’t just convenient for arrivals and departures — it means you’re in the quieter, forested part of town, which I find is the better half anyway.

Restaurants - where the locals eat and my recommendations

During my time in Le Touquet, I made a point of asking locals where they actually eat, which is a different question from where they send tourists.

The names that came up most often were Le Paris Plage, La Petite Charlotte, La Taverne Royale, and Jeans’ Cafe, all clustered around Rue St Jean. Le Perard is the go-to for fish and seafood, and probably the most famous restaurant in town. For a special occasion, Le Pavillon at Le Westminster holds a Michelin star and earns it.

My personal favourites, though, are a different list. I’ll be honest: I think all four of these are better than most of the places above, though I say that as someone who eats enthusiastically rather than critically.

• La Base Nord: My family has eaten here more times than I can count, and the views across Canche Bay are the best in Le Touquet. The food matches the setting, which is not always the case with restaurants in beautiful locations.

• Le Jardin: Across from the Palais de Congrès. Impeccable service, a menu that justifies the attention, and somehow quiet even when it’s full. The kind of place that makes an ordinary Tuesday feel like an occasion.

• La Nonna: Craving authentic Italian cuisine? Look no further than La Nonna. Tucked away within the Tennis Club, this (literally) hidden restaurant serves up the best Italian fare in town. The relaxed atmosphere, with views of the historic tennis courts, adds a unique charm to the dining experience. It's a delightful surprise and a must-visit for any pasta lover!

• A Table: Tiny, by the market, open for a few hours at lunch and dinner only. It reminds me of my grandmother’s kitchen — the portions are generous, everything is made from scratch, and nobody is trying to impress you. Book in advance. There are about twelve seats and they fill up.

These are just a few of my personal recommendations, but please do venture off the beaten path and explore Le Touquet's diverse culinary scene. There are so many restaurants available and you never know what delicious surprises await.

Further Away - Visiting Normandy

This summer, my father came to visit me in Le Touquet. He fought in the Portuguese Colonial War (1961-74) and always wanted to visit the American Cemetery in Normandy. So, I was determined to make it happen.

From Le Touquet, we flew 45 minutes to Caen. A rental car was waiting for us, and 30 minutes later, we were on Omaha Beach.

By car, the whole return journey would have taken us eight hours. Le Touquet is perfectly located to let you explore Normandy and its rich history.

Au Revoir, Le Touquet!

Le Touquet was once the most fashionable resort in Europe. Then, for a long time, it was mostly forgotten. I’m not sure exactly when it slipped off the radar, but I’m quietly glad it did. It’s a better place for it. Less performance, more substance.

It gets under your skin without making a fuss about it. You arrive thinking you’re there for a weekend, and three summers later, you’re spending the whole of August. I’m not sure I can explain it better than that, and I’m not sure I need to.

If I still believed in Santa, I’d be dropping some serious hints about a summer house here.

Au revoir, Le Touquet. Until next time.

Hey there 👋🏻

The sun’s finally peeking out, and you know what that means: beach time.

If you’re searching for the perfect UK seaside escape, let me save you the trouble. It’s Watergate Bay in Cornwall. I recently took my family there for two days, and the trip was so good I had to write about it.

A sprawling golden beach. A fantastic family hotel with free childcare (yes, really). Surf lessons, beachside yoga, gourmet food, a sea safari, and a rainy-day adventure that turned out to be the surprise highlight of the trip. Oh, and for the pilots among you, there’s an airport five minutes away.

Let’s get into it.

Getting/Flying to Watergate Bay

Family road trips to Cornwall are a rite of passage. There’s the excitement, the snacks, the inevitable “are we there yet?” chorus somewhere on the A30, and the moment you finally glimpse that coastline and think: worth it.

But if you’re a pilot, forget all that. Watergate Bay sits practically on the doorstep of Cornwall Airport Newquay, just a two-mile hop from the threshold. A quick taxi, bus, or rental car and your toes are in the sand before most people have finished arguing over the aux cable.

From ATC to the team at Flynqy handling, you’ll be well looked after from the moment you call inbound.

Our destination

Watergate Bay isn’t your typical British seaside resort. No giant hotel chains, no amusement arcades, no candy floss smell. It’s quieter, more tucked away, and all the better for it. The kind of place where you feel like you’ve stumbled onto something the crowds haven’t quite found yet.

The heart of it all is the Watergate Bay Hotel. And what a heart it is.

The hotel opened in 1900, built on the dream of welcoming tourists arriving by train. Much like HS2, that railway never materialised. The hotel, thankfully, did. Over the decades, it changed hands, wore different hats, and even served as an Officers’ Mess for the RAF during World War II. Almost certainly the best-located Officers’ Mess in British history.

After recent renovations, both the hotel and the bay are looking magnificent. Ocean views, a spa, a kids’ club, a warm welcome for dogs, and sand that stretches for two glorious miles. It’s the kind of place where time genuinely slows down. I know that sounds like a brochure line. I mean it anyway.

For Flying Visitors: Weather-Proof Your Stay

Pilots, a heads-up! The hotel’s cancellation policy is a bit strict, so keep the weather forecast in mind when planning your visit. Here are some options to ensure your plans can adapt:

• Plan B: Have a backup ground transportation plan just in case flying doesn’t work out.

• Local Stays: Explore nearby B&Bs or consider the Premier Inn Seaside in Newquay. They’ve got generous cancellation policies (up to 1 p.m. on arrival day!) for those last-minute changes.

Beachfront Yoga: giggles, tangled limbs, and so much joy

If you, like me, greet the sunrise with a smile, then I have the perfect way to start your day – beach yoga! Imagine the serenity of the shore at dawn: a gentle breeze, the sound of the waves, and the promise of a brand-new day.

We booked a private family session, eager for a shared experience. On the day, it was 8 degrees with gusty wind that whipped the sand into our faces! Ugh. Maybe not the ideal beachside yoga scenario, but our adaptable Yoga teacher Gemma moved us indoors for a heartwarming and surprisingly hilarious family yoga experience.

Were there giggles every time one of us wobbled in a pose? Absolutely. Did a few downward dogs threaten to end with tangled limbs and laughter? You bet. But did we all leave with a sense of peace, joy, and a strengthened family bond? Definitely!

Learning to Surf

When you think of top-notch British surfing, Cornwall instantly comes to mind - and Watergate Bay is no exception as home to the English National Surf Championships! Its epic waves and stunning coastline make it a surfer’s dream.

Speaking of Cornish waves, my own surfing adventure ended years ago, even before it started, with the instructor politely suggesting building sandcastles might be a better fit! Let’s just say the lifeguards know me by name and not for my wave-riding skills.

This time, I was the beaming dad on the sidelines as my daughter Amélia took on those Cornish waves for her very first lesson.

If you’re ready to try surfing Watergate Bay’s famous waves, there’s a lesson waiting for you – whether you’re a beginner or ready to level up. Choose private or group sessions, both with equipment included. Children as young as seven are most welcome to join the adventure.

Gemma (our Yoga teacher) and her partner Adam run a surf and Yoga school in Watergate Bay. You can book lessons at Blue Surf School. Please book with them. They just started their own business and their story is really inspiring.

Remember: getting into a wetsuit is an adventure in itself! Arrive early for your lesson to give yourself time for the epic wetsuit wrestling match, especially if it’s your first time. (P.S. You’re not alone – hear our hilarious struggle in our podcast episode!)

Cornish Village Vibes & Sea Safari Rides

Just a 20-minute taxi ride from Watergate Bay lies the postcard-perfect fishing village of Padstow. If you’ve ever dreamed of a charming Cornish seaside town, this is it. Picture cobblestone streets winding past quaint shops, colourful boats bobbing in the sun-dappled harbour, and seagulls wheeling overhead.

Please note that If you’re looking for a quieter experience, consider visiting during spring or autumn when the crowds are smaller.

But I don’t recommend visiting Padstow just to admire the village – please take a sea safari! From Padstow, you can hop aboard a speed boat and set off on a one, two, or three-hour adventure to explore Cornwall’s incredible marine wildlife. Depending on the season and a touch of luck, you might spot playful dolphins, sunbathing seals, charming puffins, and countless other creatures who call this coastline home.

Now, these boats are fast! And by fast, I mean a rollercoaster-style thrill ride. Our daughters absolutely loved it! For those who prefer a gentler pace, be aware that these safaris might feel a bit too adventurous.

If you ask my family what the highlight of our Cornish weekend was, they’ll shout in unison, “The sea safari!”.

Windy or rainy Cornwall? That’s your lucky day

On our last day at Watergate Bay, we woke up to 40-mile-per-hour winds. “Forget the sea, hikes or any outdoor activity”, I said to myself.

But the great news is that, contrary to what many might say, Cornwall has some fantastic activity options for rainy or windy days.

What happened that day was an unexpected family adventure to the Eden Project. And in Eden, I felt I was.

Located 30 minutes from Watergate Bay, the Eden Project looks out of this world. Its giant domes, like spaceships landed in the countryside, recreate the biodiversity of many forests around the world. One moment, you’re in the lush Amazon with towering trees and waterfalls, the next you’re having lunch amongst the citrus scents of Greece. It’s a place of incredible contrasts and an experience for all your senses!

Children will love pretending to be rainforest explorers, climbing through the canopy and finding hidden treasures. Adults will appreciate the remarkable transformation of this landscape – a former quarry now blooming with life and inspiration.

With play areas, giant sculptures, and gardens to roam, the Eden Project is a family adventure you won’t forget.

A family ticket for four typically costs around £100. Children under 5 go free, and your tickets automatically become annual passes, allowing you to return as many times as you want. Ah, if you are looking for a place to eat, head to the Mediterranean Biodome, where you’ll find a restaurant that seems just out of Mamma Mia the musical.

At the end of the day, I’m so glad we didn’t stick to our original plan. It led us to something unexpected and unforgettable.

Michelin Guide meets Pizza

I could write a whole article just about food in Cornwall. Fresh ingredients, locally produced ice cream, and fantastic breads. The region is a foodie’s paradise!

Take Padstow, a village of just 2,500 residents. This little town has six Michelin Guide reviewed restaurants – a true testament to Cornwall’s culinary excellence. One such gem is Café Rojano, its Mediterranean-inspired menu earning it well-deserved Michelin recognition. Their Neapolitan-style pizzas, crafted with the freshest, most flavourful ingredients, are simply the best I’ve ever tasted.

Other places to eat

As our days at Watergate Bay wound down, my family and I found ourselves drawn to the same spot: the Beach Hut. Nestled at the edge of the sand, this relaxed restaurant welcomes every member of the family (including four-legged ones).

Their menu strikes a perfect balance, offering fresh local produce alongside a playful selection of treats—the length of their hot chocolate options alone could rival my aeroplane checklist!

The warmth and welcome we experience at the Beach Hut is, in my opinion, one of the key reasons why Watergate Bay feels so special.

My compass

I grew up in Portugal, where the beach was simply part of life. Moving to the UK, I felt that connection to the sea drift away. Present but distant, like a radio station you can almost tune in.

Cornwall brings it back. The warmth of the sun, the sound of waves and gulls, the smell of salt and good food. It reminds me that the sea has always been my compass.

I can fly there in 75 minutes. Even if I couldn’t, I’d find my way.

If you visit Watergate Bay with your family, I hope it gives you what it gave us. Rest, joy, a few unexpected adventures, and the particular happiness of a place that exceeds your expectations. This post is my small attempt to help you get there.

Until next time, keep exploring and happy travels. ✈️

Hey There 👋

For our first Travel Plans deep dive of 2025, I’m excited to share a truly unique destination with you: Dungeness.

Of all the places I’ve visited, Dungeness stands apart. It looks like a desert. It has no shops, hotels, or facilities designed for tourists. And yet, it attracts over one million people every year.

Dungeness has a distinct character, an almost palpable sense of history and mystery. There’s also this incredible sense of peace there—a quiet solitude like you’re at the very edge of the world. It’s a place where you can really escape the craziness of everyday life. I found myself just wanting to wander, to sit and to think.

And you know what? Even though it can look harsh at first glance, there’s this amazing sense of hope there, too. Life finds a way, even in the toughest spots. You see these little wildflowers popping up between the pebbles, and it’s just a reminder that even in the most challenging of environments, life just goes on.

So, today, we’re heading to the south coast of England, exploring Dungeness, and trying to answer the question of what it’s about this windswept landscape that draws so many, including myself.

Dungeness: Storms, Smugglers and Nuclear Power

Dungeness has seen it all. From Roman times to the modern day, it’s like this place has witnessed some of the most dramatic chapters of human history.

Shipwrecks and Smugglers

Dungeness stretches out into the sea for about three miles. And that has caused more than a few headaches for sailors over the centuries. Trying to navigate these waters in the days before modern technology wasn’t for all.

To make matters even more perilous, just off the coast lies a notorious stretch of sandbanks known as the Goodwin Sands. They don’t call it “the ship swallower” for nothing.

Over 2,000 ships are believed to have met their fate there, their hulls swallowed by the shifting sands and treacherous currents. It’s like the Bermuda Triangle of England.

So, to help those poor sailors avoid disaster, the first of four lighthouses was built in 1615. It was a wooden structure, standing tall(ish… it was only 35ft). Over the years, the lighthouses were improved and updated, guiding countless ships across the area.

And because it’s so remote, Dungeness was also a favourite spot for smugglers. Brandy and tobacco, hidden amongst the shingle, were brought ashore under the cover of darkness, evading the watchful eyes of the authorities.

From Lifeboats to Nuclear Power

In the 18th century, a lifeboat station was built, and the place remained pretty much the same until the First World War when workers employed by Southern Railway purchased old carriages and set them up as beach houses.

During World War II, Dungeness played a vital contribution to the war. Perhaps the most important project was PLUTO, the pipeline under the ocean, a feat of engineering that helped fuel the liberation of Europe. I’ll tell you more about that in a moment.

But arguably, the most transformative moment in Dungeness’s history was the construction in the 1960s of the first of two nuclear power plants. These imposing structures, with their stark silhouettes against the vast sky, have become synonymous with Dungeness, a symbol of both progress and controversy.

Journey to the Edge: Reaching Dungeness

Getting to Dungeness is an adventure in itself. If you’re travelling by car from London, the journey takes about two and a half hours, winding through the picturesque Kent countryside. Rolling hills, charming villages, and historic landmarks dot the route, making it a delightful experience in itself.

I’d definitely recommend making a stop in the historic town of Rye. Its cobbled streets, medieval architecture, and quaint shops are a feast for the senses.

By Plane

Now, for those who prefer to take to the skies, there’s good news. Lydd Airport, also known as London Ashford Airport, is just five miles from Dungeness. This general aviation friendly airport offers a convenient gateway to this remote headland.

Final Approach

However, once you land at Lydd, getting to Dungeness itself requires a bit more planning. Buses aren’t frequent, and walking would take a couple of hours. My advice? Pre-book a taxi (the team at the airport has a great list of options) or, if you’re feeling adventurous, bring a bicycle with you. That’s what I did and it was a fantastic way to experience the landscape up close.

As you approach Dungeness, the landscape begins to transform. The lush green fields taken over by golf courses or even hundreds of sheep, give way to shimmering lakes reflecting the sky like giant mirrors.

And then there’s the shingle. Miles and miles of it, stretching out as far as you can see. It’s a vast, open expanse with cool freshwater pits, wet grassland, and meadows full of wildflowers.

The pits are bird heaven, with thousands of them hanging out there. The place is so important to them that the area is now a National Nature Reserve.

As you get closer to the shore, you start to see these houses dotted around the landscape. They’re all spread out, each one looking like it has its own story to tell.

Dungeness: Beauty in the Unexpected

Arriving at Dungeness is like stepping into another world. It’s not a seaside resort, with ice cream stands and amusement arcades. Instead, it’s this vast, open expanse of shingle, stretching out as far as the eye can see. The land is so flat that you feel like you can almost touch the sky, and the wind whips through your hair, carrying the salty tang of the sea.

It’s a place where you’re completely exposed to the elements. You feel the earth beneath your feet, the sun (if you are lucky) on your skin, and the wind in your face. It’s a raw, untamed beauty that can be both exciting and humbling.

I wouldn’t exactly call Dungeness a village. It’s more like a scattering of human elements across this wild landscape. You’ve got a few houses here, a couple of lighthouses over there, and these weathered fishing huts and abandoned boats dotted around, reminding you of the people who have braved this challenging environment.

Building anything new in Dungeness is no easy feat. The whole area is protected, so you can’t just roll up with your blueprints and start building your dream beach house. Any new homes have to be built on the footprint of old and existing structures, following strict rules to preserve the character of the area.

But here’s the funny thing: some of those modest dwellings have been transformed into some of the most amazing examples of modern architecture you’ll ever see. It’s like a bizarre mix of old and new, rustic and futuristic.

And then there’s the elephant in the room: the two nuclear power stations looming in the distance. It’s a stark contrast, creating a scene that’s both unsettling and strangely captivating.

Dungeness is remote, isolated, and exposed, yet it draws you in with its mysterious charm. It makes you wonder about the lives that have been lived here, the stories that have unfolded, and the secrets hidden beneath the shingle.

Prospect Cottage: a Battery for Life

Nestled amidst the shingle, with its vibrant yellow windows contrasting against the stark landscape, stands Prospect Cottage, the former home of the renowned film director Derek Jarman. Surrounded by one of the world’s most celebrated gardens, this cottage holds a significant place in Jarman’s life and artistic journey.

Derek Jarman bought this cottage in 1986, the same year he was diagnosed with HIV. The illness prompted him to seek refuge in Dungeness, a place where he could create and find solace.

For the next eight years, he poured his heart and soul into creating a garden around the cottage. Initially inspired by the traditional English cottage gardens of his childhood, he adapted his vision to suit the harsh environment, transforming the shingle into a canvas for his creativity.

The result is a magical blend of formality and wildness. Sculptures made from driftwood and rusted metal rise from the shingle, alongside colorful wildflowers and hardy shrubs. It’s a testament to Jarman’s resilience and artistic vision, finding beauty and life in this challenging landscape.

The cottage itself is a work of art, a reflection of Jarman’s eclectic interests and creative spirit. The walls are adorned with his paintings and poetry, and the rooms are filled with objects that tell the story of his life and work.

And then there’s the power station, looming in the distance, a reminder of the industrial world that Jarman both embraced and challenged. For him, the power station was a source of fascination and unease, representing both potential danger and visual inspiration. He likened it to the Emerald City from “The Wizard of Oz,” its lights twinkling in the night sky.

This duality, the juxtaposition of myth and modernity, nature and industry, is a recurring theme in Jarman’s work. He saw beauty in the unexpected, finding inspiration in both the natural world and the industrial landscape.

After Derek’s death, his partner, Keith Collins, moved to the cottage and lovingly cared for the garden for 25 years until his own passing just a few years ago. Today, the cottage is managed by an arts organisation, ensuring that Jarman’s legacy lives on.

Anyone can visit the garden, and you can even go inside the cottage during one of the many public open days. It’s a truly special experience, and a chance to connect with Jarman’s creative spirit and appreciate the unique beauty he created in this challenging environment.

Checking In: My Honest Hotel Reviews

I’m really sorry but I’ve just tricked you! There aren’t any hotels in Dungeness. But that’s part of its charm. If you’re looking for a unique and memorable place to stay, Dungeness has some truly extraordinary options.

I would argue that coming to Dungeness and spending a few days inside one of these places is enough to make me want to go back.

Unique Stays

In Dungeness, you can spend the night in a converted lighthouse, a coastguard lookout, or even a railway carriage. These aren’t just places to sleep; they’re experiences in themselves.

But Dungeness isn’t just about the past. Some of the old fishermen’s cottages and railway carriages left behind have been transformed into stunning examples of contemporary architecture. These modern homes blend seamlessly into the landscape while offering luxurious amenities and breathtaking views.

El Ray: A Railway Carriage Dream

A prime example is El Ray, a stunning beachfront property located right beside the power station. Imagine waking up to the sound of the waves and the sight of the sun rising over the sea, all framed by floor-to-ceiling windows. El Ray includes a private terrace, a cozy fireplace, and a striking feature that sets it apart: a 19th-century railway carriage right in the middle of the living area.

It’s a truly unique and unforgettable experience, and it’s yours for around £500 a night. Most designer homes in Dungeness go for anything from £500 to £1000 a night.

Budget-Friendly Accomodation and War Secrets

Dungeness caters to a variety of budgets and preferences. While high-end options like El Ray offer a luxurious experience, there are also some affordable alternatives.

Renting a room in a local home can provide a cozy and authentic experience, allowing you to connect with the local community and uncover some of Dungeness’s lesser-known stories.

During World War II, Dungeness was a hub for secret military operations. The most important of these was PLUTO – the Pipeline Under The Ocean. After D-Day, a secret pipeline was laid across the English Channel to supply fuel to the Allied forces. In Dungeness, high-pressure pumping stations, cleverly disguised as bungalows, garages, and even ice cream shops, pumped over 120 million gallons of petrol to the front lines

After the war, some of these camouflaged pumping stations were converted into homes. One of them, belonging to Lesley Taylor, is now available for rent on Airbnb. You can spend the night in this unique piece of wartime history, experiencing a blend of history and modern comfort. One double bedroom is available from aproximately £95 per night.

To learn more about the PLUTO project and Lesley Taylor’s fascinating Airbnb, please listen to the podcast. Lesley shares her insights and experiences, offering a glimpse into the history and character of this unique accommodation.

Eating with a Side of History (and Freshly Caught Fish)

Eating out is a fairly easy topic when you are in Dungeness.

Depending on the day, you might only have two or three places to choose from. And if you’re looking for a supermarket or shop, you’ll need to head to the nearby village of Greatstone-on-Sea. But don’t let that deter you. Dungeness has some culinary gems waiting to be discovered.

The Pilot

The Pilot is a true Dungeness institution. This historic pub, built with wood salvaged from a Spanish ship that sank on the beach in 1633, has been serving locals and visitors for centuries. In the 1950s, it was transformed into a modern, quirky, and comfy version of its original self, while still retaining its historic charm.

The Pilot is the heart and soul of Dungeness. It’s where locals (and their dogs) gather for everything from work meetings to family celebrations, from a relaxing pint to a quick bite. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming, with friendly staff and a menu that caters to all tastes.

Snack Shack Surprise

Now, I mentioned that depending on the day, there’s a third option. It’s called the Snack Shack, and many swear it’s the best fish restaurant in the country! By “restaurant,” I mean a container placed by the road. But don’t let that put you off. The fish served here is freshly caught on the day. And if the weather doesn’t allow the owners to go to sea and fish, the shack doesn’t open. So please check their websitebefore you head to the beach.

The Snack Shack offers a simple but delicious menu featuring fresh fish and potatoes (they don’t call them chips here), fish flatbread with a gorgeous salad, avocado, and homemade slaw.

So, if you’re looking for a taste of local life and a delicious meal in a unique setting, be sure to visit The Pilot or the Snack Shack. They offer a true taste of Dungeness.

Beyond the Beach - More to Explore

When I visit Dungeness, I often find myself drawn to the simple pleasures: long walks on the beach, exploring the nature reserve, and simply soaking up the atmosphere of this unique place. It’s a chance to disconnect from the hustle and bustle of everyday life and reconnect with myself and my loved ones.

Miniature Railway Adventures

But for those seeking a bit more adventure, there’s the Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch Railway. This miniature railway, founded in the 1920s, is a delight for families and train enthusiasts. The steam locomotives, one-third the size of full-scale trains, chug along a 13-mile track and offer scenic views of the Dungeness landscape.

It’s a journey back in time and a chance to experience the landscape from a different perspective as you pass by surrounding villages, historic landmarks, and the unique flora and fauna of the Dungeness Nature Reserve.

The Nature Reserve

Speaking of the nature reserve, it’s a must-visit for any nature lover. The Dungeness National Nature Reserve offers a diverse range of habitats, from shingle beaches and freshwater pits to wet grassland and wildflower meadows. It’s a paradise for birds, with the RSPB reserve offering a prime location for observing migratory birds in spring and autumn.

Is This the Most Healing Place on Earth?

Writer and journalist Farrah Storr once called Dungeness the most healing place on earth. While I can appreciate the sentiment, I also believe that the places that touch our souls and offer solace are deeply personal. What might be a source of healing for one person might not resonate with another.

That said, there’s an undeniable magic to Dungeness, a unique energy that seems to seep into us and leave you feeling refreshed and revitalised. Perhaps it’s the vastness of the landscape, the ever-present wind, or the beauty of the shingle. Or maybe it’s the juxtaposition of nature and industry, history and modernity, that creates a space for reflection and introspection.

There, you’re reminded that you’re not fully in control. Life, like the ever-shifting landscape of Dungeness, is full of unexpected twists and turns, of challenges and triumphs.

Derek Jarman once said, “People steal cuttings. I encourage them.” He understood that the beauty of Dungeness is meant to be shared, its energy and spirit carried beyond its shores.

I never take anything away from Dungeness, but I always leave with something more – a renewed sense of wonder, a deeper connection to nature, and a reminder that even in the most challenging environments, life finds a way to flourish.

It’s a place of finding for those who believe they are lost.

Hey there 👋

I hope you’re doing fantastic! Ready to dive into an adventure-filled guide to Cambridge? Buckle up, because we’re about to embark on a journey through one of the most vibrant cities in the UK.

Recently, I flew to Cambridge for a two-day getaway. I ended up on a whirlwind tour of Cambridge, packed with hidden gems, whimsical culture, and oh-so-much more!

If you’re looking for adventure with family or friends, this article is packed with great suggestions for a weekend getaway.

Getting/flying to Cambridge

Cambridge is easily accessible by road (M11) or direct trains from London, Birmingham and Norwich.

If you are a pilot and decide to fly in, landing in Cambridge is a breeze. You can either fly directly to Cambridge Airport or opt for the historical Duxford Airfield ten miles to the south of the city. And once you’re on the ground, getting around is a piece of cake. You’ve got buses and taxis, but hey, why not embrace the city’s cycling culture? With 80 miles of cycle lanes and bike parking galore, pedalling around Cambridge is an adventure in itself!

Cycling through Cambridge feels like a journey back in time. As we wander through the city’s winding streets, prepare to be enchanted by its timeless beauty. From the bustling Market Square to the Gothic grandeur of King’s College Chapel, Cambridge wears its history like a crown.

It’s a bird. It’s a plane. It’s Superman a Night Climber of Cambridge!

For an unforgettable start to your Cambridge adventure, challenge yourself to ascend the 124 steps of St Mary’s Church’s narrow tower. Once at the top, you’ll be rewarded with sweeping 360-degree views of the city, from a single vantage point.

As I admired the King’s College chapel spires, I noticed these imposing white spikes jutting out halfway down. They're like the ones we use to shoo away birds, only supersized. Their purpose? To deter intrepid climbers from scaling the chapel spires. Now, you might wonder, why would anyone attempt such a feat? Well, welcome to Cambridge, home to the enigmatic and clandestine society of the night climbers of Cambridge.

And for a taste of modern art and a really interesting backstory (more on the podcast), don't miss the Corpus Clock—a quirky timepiece that will either tickle your fancy or make you feel slightly depressed. It was great to know that if you do well in life, let’s say, invent the cordless kettle, this is the type of artwork you could commission!

Visit a College for Free

Exploring the 31 colleges scattered across Cambridge isn’t always a walk in the park. While some may bar your entry or charge a fee, there’s at least one gem that welcomes you with open arms – Pembroke College. Established in 1347 by Marie de St Pol, Pembroke stands as one of the city’s oldest colleges, proudly preserving some of its original structures. While you’ll have to steer clear of student and staff-only areas, you’re free to wander through its serene gardens and chapel. Trust me, it’s a visit well worth your while!

If you can afford to spare £5, Queens’ College is the home of the most photographed landmark in Cambridge - the Mathematical Bridge, originally built in 1749.

Dinky Doors

Cambridge isn't just about ancient buildings – it's a city brimming with life. Take a stroll to the Eagle Pub, where World War II pilots once swapped tales over a pint or two.

And keep an eye out for the Dinky Doors that pepper the city’s nooks and crannies – each one a tiny portal to a world of wonder.

Exploring all the dinky doors feels like uncovering hidden treasures scattered across Cambridge. It’s unlike any tour I’ve experienced before, and I totally get why families and children adore it. Despite their small stature, each tiny sculpture carries a delightful backstory guaranteed to bring a smile to your face and paint Cambridge in the brightest of colours.

To discover the 14 charming doors scattered across Cambridge, I suggest grabbing a tour guide from the city’s bookshops or purchasing one online at Dinky Door’s website.

Places Worth a Visit

The only thing lacking in Cambridge was time – there was just so much to explore, and I only had two days. Here’s a rundown of the top museums and must-see sites.

From ancient wonders to modern marvels, the Fitzwilliam Museum proudly leads the impressive collections of the University of Cambridge. With over half a million works of art, including masterpiece paintings and historical artefacts, it’s a treasure trove that spans the ages. Entrance is free of charge.

Just a stone’s throw away, nestled along the road, awaits the Botanic Gardens – a verdant oasis that catches the eye of all admirers of botanical beauty. For those with a passion for verdant landscapes and lush plant life, this tranquil haven is an absolute must-visit. Throughout the year, the Botanic Gardens organise many family events, including Christmas lighting shows, music festivals, and Easter egg hunts. Children don’t pay to get in. But you’ll have to pay £8 if you want to go with them!

Kettle’s Yard is the University of Cambridge’s modern and contemporary art gallery. A visit to Kettle’s Yard is a real treat! The gallery, in the former home of one-time Tate curator Jim Ede, is free to enter, but you’ll have to book tickets. Filled with artwork collected by Ede from prominent Modernists, you’re encouraged to sit on the original furniture to better enjoy the exhibits.

A Surprise Highlight: Cambridge American Cemetery

You might think a cemetery is a strange travel destination, but hear me out. The Cambridge American Cemetery ended up being a moving and unexpected highlight of my trip.

If you decide to cycle, getting there is a workout (note to self: Cambridge’s sparse hills are no joke when you’re on a bike!), but the view from the top...wow! Rows of white headstones curving across the hillside, the US flag flying high – it commands silence and reflection.

This is where thousands of American WWII heroes are buried, a sobering reminder of the sacrifices made. The Walls of the Missing, with names like the musician Glenn Miller and JFK’s brother Joseph P. Kennedy Jr., lists the names of those whose bodies were never recovered. There are over 5,000 of them.

But this place isn’t just about remembrance. The visitor centre tells their stories, and it makes you appreciate the freedom we enjoy today.

Definitely worth the cycle uphill...and the easy downhill ride back to town! After that cycle, you’ll need some food.

Oh, Glorious Food

From popular street food vendors to Michelin-reviewed restaurants, Cambridge has it all. Here are some of the places I had the pleasure of trying and highly recommend:

• Mercado Central - this Michelin-reviewed Spanish restaurant, offers the best of Galician and Basque country heritage. £29 three-course lunch menu.

• The Old Bicycle Shop - rumours (probably spread by the restaurant owners) say that Charles Darwin bought a bicycle from this space back in the 1800s. Two centuries later, the restaurant and bar celebrate the original shop and serve fantastic classical dishes with fresh local ingredients. Great for both meat lovers and vegans. Prices in the region of £10/£20.

• Fitzbillies - famous for its Chelsea Buns, despite facing trials of fire and conflict, including the ravages of the Second World War and a devastating inferno in 1998, Fitzbillies has remained resilient for over 100 years. A Chelsea Bun and a coffee cost me £8. Ouch!

And relax…

Cambridge does have a surprising range of accommodation options for its size.

I spent a night at the University Arms Hotel, a quirky yet luxurious retreat in the heart of Cambridge. Dating back to 1834 when it served as a coaching inn, it’s the oldest hotel in town. After an impressive £80 million renovation, it’s now more splendid than ever. One night starts at around £180.

If you’re looking for a budget-friendly option, starting at £75 per night, look no further than the IBIS hotel conveniently located by the train station in Cambridge. Word on the street is that their pizza is the best-kept secret in town. So, if you’re craving a delicious slice after a day of exploring the city, IBIS might just be your go-to spot.

Cambridge: A Weekend Getaway for Thinkers and Dreamers

Cambridge feels like a beacon – a place where humanity’s drive to learn and understand is on full display. It hums with energy, a mix of brilliant minds and the echoes of history.

This town welcomes the world. Students, researchers, scientists, artists, tourists – everyone finds their place here.

It’s small enough for a weekend getaway but packed with things to explore, making it perfect for friends or family.

Honestly, what a place!

Until next time, keep exploring and happy flights!

P.S. Since the publication of this article, I’ve moved permanently to Cambridge. That’s how much I like it here.